Mardi Gras Music: Mardi Gras Indians and Zulu
Discover an oral history of the New Orleans Mardi Gras Indians.
On Mardi Gras, you'll often here “Here comes Zulu!” While the Zulu Social Aid & Pleasure Club and the Mardi Gras Indians are different in some aspects, they both emerged from New Orleans African American communities, and they both parade through the streets during Carnival.
Mardi Gras Zulu
The Zulu organization, a benevolent association, is best known for its Mardi Gras parade, first presented in 1909. Then, the parade limited its travels to localized New Orleans neighborhoods. In 1968, its route included popular tourist spots, such as St. Charles Avenue and Canal Street. If you miss seeing them at Mardi Gras, catch a Super Sunday parade around St. Joseph's Day in March.
The Zulu Coconut
Want lifelong bragging rights? Catch a Zulu coconut, one of the most coveted throws of the Mardi Gras season. Members began decorating and handing out the metallic gold coconuts, or “golden nuggets,” in 1910.
Lundi Gras
Until 1987, the day before Mardi Gras was a rather quiet day. The introduction of Lundi Gras changed that — especially with the Zulu club presenting a festival along the Mississippi River.
It's an all-day affair with live music and fully costumed Zulu characters — the King and Queen, Mr. Big Stuff, the Witch Doctor and more — roaming along the riverfront. At the end, a second line ensues with King Zulu heading to the Spanish Plaza to ceremoniously meet Rex, King of Carnival.
Where to See the Mardi Gras Indians on Carnival Day
To catch the Zulu parade and the Mardi Gras Indians on Carnival Day, meet at the intersection of North Claiborne and Orleans avenues. Routes can be fluid, often beginning from the chief's home.
History of the New Orleans Mardi Gras Indians
The history of this culture, one of the most significant and unique in the United States, is oral — told through songs and chants, much like the way stories were told by African griots. Most agree that the custom of African American masking Indians began in the mid-19th century as a way to honor Native Americans with whom enslaved people found refuge when they sought freedom from their mutual oppressors. Some returned to tell their tales of their union.
Ostracized by the white New Orleans Carnival krewes and festivities, Mardi Gras Indians found a way to celebrate the holiday in their own way, in their own communities, by taking to the streets donned with feathered suits, crowns and chants.
In the early decades, the Indians used what they had to create their suits. They'd find bangles from discarded dresses or mismatched earrings to make their suits sparkle. Inventively, they'd use circular metal industrial cutouts to make their suits ring along with their tambourines.
Zuni & Mardi Gras Indians Today
Now, some 30 to 40 Mardi Gras Indian groups compete for recognition with their spectacular, elaborately adorned, feathered and hand-sewn beaded suits as they ceremoniously meet and dance with other tribes.
It takes the Mardi Gras Indians all year to create these works of art which, by those tribes that hold to tradition, are only worn on Mardi Gras Day and a few select occasions.
The Mardi Gras Indians and Zulu Social Aid & Pleasure Club carry on the traditions because of strong community and family ties and the passion for continuum.
Jan Ramsey is the founder and author of Offbeat Magazine.
